2005 Toyota Tundra Front Diff Actuator Plug Diagram
| | |
Toyota Tech: Defeating the ADD
Toyota introduced the Automatic Differential Disconnect (Impart) 4-wheel drive system on its trucks in 1989, and on the 4Runner with the 1990 redesign. This system is collected of a vacuum cleaner-activated transmutation fork in the front differential driver's side of meat axle vacuum tube: when the transfer example lever is stirred to the 4Hi set back, vacuum is applied to the forking which successively moves a sleeve to lock the privileged nub axle shaft from the carrier to another rotating shaft in the tube. This axle assembly powers the driver's side wheel, while the passenger side is a single shaft from the carrier to the privileged CV joint. While in 2WD, the driver's side axle is disconnected within the tube. The ADD trucks also have hub flanges at the wheels or else of conventional hubs; a series of vacuum switching valves (VSV's) in the engine bay to control the actuator; and a carry-over case position indictor switch, which controls the dash light.
Piece the Lend system is convenient and seems reliable, I yearned-for to eliminate mine as a potential drop seed of failure - vacancy, electrical, or sleeve failures are possible in this critical system. The system also requires a vacuum hose from in the engine bay (peculiarly with an automatic transmission), which makes field troubleshooting a job. On trucks with automated transmissions, extra electronics are added to monitoring device transfer case lever position. I found that by removing the ADD vacuum and physical phenomenon subsystems, I'd wind up with a simplified 4WD system, and therefore reduce possible failures.
First, remove the front skidplate. You should either drain the front first derivative of its oil, or hold until you take away the actuator gathering from the differential to net ball it drain (this will maintain roughly 1/2 of your existing gear vegetable oil).
 |
| Actuator with shimmy pitchfork. |
The actuator assembly is on the driver's go with of the differential. Remove the 4WD dash indicator plug (covered plug) from the assembly, then remove the vacuum lines from the assembly. You can besides remove the vacuum line brackets and hard lines from the differential housing.
There are four 12mm bolts holding the actuator in lieu. Remove these bolts and lightly beg the assembly with a hammer handle to jar it loose. If you haven't drained your mathematical operation anoint, information technology will decant at this point. Remove the actuator assemblage.
Adjacent, clean the old gasket bodied from the differential housing and the actuator assembly with a plastic putty knife.
 |
| Place the clinch around the ramify rod. |
The shift branch out rides on a rod within the assembly. When the fork is to the passenger side, the shafts are bolted. Slide the fork to the passenger side of meat, then cap the vacuum ports on the fabrication. The key to guaranteeing the fork will never move is to place a hose clamp Oregon CV boot clamp round the rod the separate slides happening - and be sure to trim whatever extra clamp length. This will eliminate whatsoever chance of the fork moving from the locked position.
Inside the opening in the housing, you can manipulate the locking sleeve. Moving it to the rider side locks the shafts together -- but if you slide it too far, you'll expose the gear and NOT lock the shafts (assume't worry, the sleeve will non slide proscribed of reach). The deep-set section of the arm should glucinium visible when it is in the proper position. When the actuator is placed on the housing, be sure enough to trial run engagement of the sleeve past turning the front driveshaft - the driver's side One hundred five/axle should also turn.
When you are sure it is in the locked position, test fit the fork assembly to the housing and test for lock again. It's identical easy to move the sleeve to the unlocked position while fitting the fork. I ground it easiest to mount the assembly happening my V6 truck aside going upwards betwixt the front turn down control arm crossmember and IFS, positioning the fork at an angle to the arm, then sliding it in. This was practically easier than going at it from the front, where the oil pan off interferes.
When you're ready to finally go the assembly, go for new gasket-Lord to the assembly and seat it. Examine it again to make certain the shafts are bolted collectively! Then tighten information technology down, refill your derived function and get ready to tide rip...........
 |
| Vacuum Switch Valves (VSV's) in railway locomotive bay. |
Trace the two vacuum lines you removed from the strawma of the differential prepared through the railway locomotive quest. They terminate in the lower ports of VSV's behind the fuse box on the passenger side. Remove the lines. From the VSV's there is a lonesome vacuum line to the engine vacuum source which can be removed, and the port crowned. At this point, you can remove the electricla sensors from the VSV's, and completely take away the VSV forum.
 |
| Removing vacuum parts - this is scarce a start! |
You john also remove the vacuum tank in the wheel substantially, along with the lines to and from it. One vacuum line goes up between the fenders to the VSV's (through a grommet in the inner fender), and can be abstracted by pulling the eyelet and communication channel through the opening.
The 4WD dash indicator sensor (white plug) on the front differential can be removed as cured. Seal up the fitting for the index, and trace the wires gage to the firewall. Nip them, strip few insulation, wind the leads unneurotic, and then wrap them well - directly when you pick out 4WD via your transfer pillowcase lever, the indicator in the dash wish work properly. If you assume't feel like tracing this, simply put the white hack back into the actuator and your panache indicator bequeath work pulverized. Initially, I left the sensor plug in the assembly, merely have since gone back and cut the wires in the engine bay laurel.
Eliminating the ADD system works with either the ADD hub flanges or manual hubs. With either hub type, you keep shift-on-the-fly capableness: however, with extremity hubs you eliminate any front drivetrain "get behind" with the hubs unlocked and in 2WD. Upon completion, you let a greatly simplified and bulletproof 4WD activation system that works the same as stock!
 |
| Assembly remounted to differential. |
- Toyota Section
Trending along 4x4Wire TrailTalk Forums
OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, JeepWire, TrailTalk, MUIRNet-Tidings, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc. and MUIRNet Consulting.
Right of first publication (c) 1999-2019 OutdoorWire, Inc and MUIRNet Consulting - All Rights Inhibited, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express inscribed license
You may radio link freely to this site, simply no promote use is allowed without the express graphic permit of the owner of this material.
Every last corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
Source: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
Posted by: johnathonrinou.blogspot.com